MsAdventures: France

Showing posts with label France. Show all posts

Monday, August 31, 2015

Bruges, Belgium; Amsterdam, The Netherlands; and Normandy, France

Bruges, Belgium

Bruges is a lovely little city. It has beautiful little canals and bridges across them; touring by canal boat is a fun little adventure that takes you into the heart of the residential section.

Many of its medieval buildings are notable, including the Church of Our Lady, whose brick spire reaches 122.3 m (401.25 ft), making it one of the world's highest brick towers/buildings. The sculpture Madonna and Child, which can be seen in the transept, is believed to be Michelangelo's only sculpture to have left Italy within his lifetime.

Although it probably had its biggest moment in the 12th century as an important center of the textile trade between the northern European areas and the Mediterranean, the era ended when the inlet upon which it was situated silted over. In the 15th century, it became famous once again for its magnificent lace, made by hand both then and now by Belgian women.

Bruges Canal, Bruges,, Belgium

from Wandering Western Europe,

sketchbook journal entry dated 8/19/05

I did purchase a small piece of handcrafted lace while I was there -- very expensive -- for a small 15" diameter doily, U.S. $75.00, but I was certain to avoid the cheaper, tourist traps where they sold lace made in China under the name "Brussels Lace." This now happens all over Europe. Local handcrafts have made-in-China knock-offs sold at bargain prices.

By the way, the interesting shape of the tree on the right is the result of serious pruning... I did not make that up!

Amsterdam, The Netherlands

My visit to Amsterdam happened as they were in the second week of a garbage haulers strike, so it was, uh, rather odorous. Every corner was piled with plastic garbage bags as high as the citizens could throw them on the pile, with more than a few torn open by scavenging animals. Putting it mildly, it was a real mess.

Amsterdam, The Netherlands

from Wandering Western Europe,

sketchbook journal entry dated 8/22/05

The canals were very, very nice; it was a beautiful summer day and that part of the trip was absolutely lovely. It's quite striking: The houses are shades of grey, brown and taupe and the boats and cars are the brightest colors the Dutch can find! All along the canals, literally throughout the entire city are houseboats tied alongside. Our local guide told us that at one point, it was because finding an economical place to live was difficult and property taxes were very high, but now the financial advantage has been diminished by governments trying to add revenues. The houses are tall and slender because real property taxes used to be levied based upon how wide your property was, but not how tall!

The house in which Anne Frank hid is similar to the dark brown one in the center.

Normandy, France

The Seine River, Normandy, France

from Wandering Western Europe,

sketchbook journal entry dated 8/24/05

Anyone who knows me, knows that I have a love affair going with France. In this particular instance, I opted out of the general tour activity to do what some of my artistic idols -- Monet, Manet, Pisarro, Hassan, Cortés and others have done: Find a spot alongside the Seine and paint the countryside.

There is a major highway, that runs on the side of the mountain in the background for the entire length that is the main route to go to Paris from the port of Le Havre and from which you can hear the constant hum of traffic.

Friday, May 15, 2015

At Uschi's House

We woke up to a grey, rainy day. After the group tramped down the stairs to the breakfast room, Uschi and her husband, Marsh, transported us in 3 carloads to their home.

When Uschi was teaching an art class in Washington, DC, one of her students came to class and offered to sell an apartment that she owned in France. Uschi bought it on the spot; then she went home and told Marsh! Later, they purchased a stable on the corner of a farm near the village of Cropigny and had spent several years renovating it, bit by bit. When we were there, the downstairs was completed and Marsh was plastering the walls upstairs as we painted. Uschi and Marsh spend 6 months in France during the summers and 6 months in the US.

It should be noted that the 6 months spent in France is during the hot, humid months we live with in Hilton Head; the 6 months they spend in Hilton Head are the "cold" months in France. That is my idea of heaven... and I would do the same thing in a heartbeat.

At Uschi's, Cropigny, FR

from Tours de France,

sketchbook journal entry dated 7/18/04

So, we had all 20 of us, French and American artists, inside Uschi's house for our last day of painting together and each of us trying our best to find something to inspire us. The windows across the front of the house, looking across the garden and fields had artists side by side. In retrospect, I could have painted a scene of painters. But, I was attracted to the doorway to the second floor and more interested in my conversation (her little bit of English and my little bit of French) with Ramonde. Somehow, she and I had formed some sort of bond over the course of time.

At lunchtime, we rigged a table for 22 out of some supports and boards. Uschi and a few of the other women had created a wonderful luncheon for all of us. We lingered over lunch because all of us knew what would come next: our goodbyes. Finally, the French artists formed one line and the American artists formed a second line just like sports teams do at the end and one by one, we passed each other and gave hugs and kisses. Then, with a few tears on cheeks, they filed out the door to their cars.

All in all, it was an absolutely remarkable trip.

Thursday, May 14, 2015

Canal de Nivernais

We spent the entire day painting at the Canal de Nivernais, at Pazy. Renting a boat on the Canal is apparently a favorite holiday for the Brits and just about every boat that floated by while we were painting was a canal boat, similar to the one I have depicted here filled with Brits laughing and calling over to us on shore.

Canal de Nivernais, Pazy, FR

from Tours de France,

sketchbook journal entry dated 7/17/04

The canal has a series of locks that slow the transit down, so it is not a holiday for anyone in a hurry to go anywhere.

Saturday, April 25, 2015

Apremont

The gardens of Apremont were quite some distance away from our tiny village in Burgundy; we left very early and took what seemed to be hours in a little minivan. We went though Nevers and across the Loire River and finally arrived at a botanical garden.

When I first arrived, I wasn't too enthused. Yes, it was lovely and there were some nice views, but I tend to favor man-made structures --architecture, bridges, sculptures, fountains and that sort of thing over a simple landscape. There was a Japanese style arched bridge over a stream, but my attitude was, "Why would I paint a Japanese bridge in France?"

Botanical Garden, Apremont

from Tours de France,

sketchbook journal entry dated 7/15/04

So I left our little group to find something more to my liking and settled for the caretaker's cottage, instead. Certain things show up in my paintings again and again. I love repeating angles such as the repeat in the stairway wall and the roofline. And yes, there's that mysterious dark doorway, this time balanced by a white door.

We had a lovely do-it-yourself picnic lunch from a few loaves of crusty baguettes and assorted meats, cheese and condiments plus of course a few hearty jugs of Burgundy that we brought along. No, I am not kidding! We literally had jugs of some of the finest Burgundy wine I have ever had and we purchased it for a few euros apiece at the convenience store across the street from our little hotel. The old saying is true: They keep the best wine for themselves.

After our lunch break, we decided to do an afternoon session. I wandered off in search of another subject, but nothing captured my interest. Finally, I spotted some roses beginning to bloom. Please note that I had to "borrow" a bloom here and a bud there to paint this. No one part of the rose bush contained all of the parts.

Capa Magna Rose, Apremont, France

from Tours de France,

sketchbook journal entry dated 7/15/04

Finally, today is my birthday! I received a dozen red and white roses from my husband, so it is only fitting that my post today would include a rose!

Thursday, April 23, 2015

Mme. Berrier's Jardin

Not to be outdone by Madame Widemann, Madame Berrier invited us to paint in her garden. She had the advantage of having a day when the sun was shining; at Mme. Widemann's house it was drizzling nearly the entire morning. Mme. Berrier took advantage of the fact and spent most of the morning out in the courtyard with us where she sat at a patio table with her companion, Pierre, and chatted with those close to her.

Madame Berrier's Jardin

from Tours de France,

sketchbook journal entry dated 7/14/04

In this particular instance, I was fascinated by the deep doorway of a barn-like building at the back of the garden and the huge millstone leaning against it. There was a watering trough next to that which Madame Berrier had filled with soil and had planted asters. Just about everywhere you gazed there were vines or espaliered trees against the buildings or there were pots filled with flowers.

Since I finished earlier than the others, I moved closer toward Mme. Berrier (Josette) so I could at least overhear the conversation. While I sat there, I painted a clematis that was clinging to a trellis on the garage wall.

Madame Berrier's Garden - Clematis

from Tours de France,

sketchbook journal entry dated 7/14/04

Later, after we had all finished, Madame Berrier invited all of us into her salon where she gave details of various artpieces located on the walls and furniture tops. It turned out that Mme. Berrier was once the mistress to one of France's foreign ministers and had lived in Paris, where she collected most of the pieces.

Le Jardin de Mme. Widemann

Madame Widemann's Garden

from Tours de France,

sketchbook journal entry dated 7/13/04

One of the nicest things about painting in France is the sort of opportunities that arise. It seems that all of France is in love with art and artists.

Compare: Every time I enter Quebec, the border guards ask me my occupation. If I say "artist" they are quick to say, "Are you aware that it is against the law to produce, sell or cause to be sold any form of artwork in Quebec?" In France, if you tell the guard that you are an artist and that you have come to paint, he or she will practically hug you. "Bonne chance! Enjoy your painting! I hope you have perfect weather!"

Madame Widemann is an example of the sort of opportunity that I am describing. When she discovered that a troupe of American artists were visiting her little village in Burgundy, she was very insistent that we spend a morning painting behind her home in her garden. By French standards, her house was huge and really rather ancient. The buckle in the roof that I painted is there in reality. The French are also masters of "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." I don't have any idea of how long that buckled section has been there but it adds a certain character to the building, don't you think?

Sunday, April 19, 2015

Sojourn in Burgundy, France

More than a few years ago, I travelled to France with a small group of South Carolina artists for the sole purpose of spending about a month painting in the French countryside. My companion from Hilton Head Island was Irene, but we met up in Paris with 7 others from various areas around the state and 2 friends of friends from Wisconsin. Then, we connected with a group of French artists we joined forces with in Burgundy.

That trip would ultimately become one that I frequently wish I could experience one more time. Prior to that, I had always considered art to be a solitary pursuit; after, I longed for the camaraderie of kindred spirits.

French Farm Cart at Uschi's House

from Tours de France,

sketchbook journal entry dated 7/12/04

France can be rainy quite often, so we found ways to cope with a rainy day here and there, although we lucked into quite a bit of sunshine. On this particular day, we sought refuge at another artist's home near the foothills of the Morvan mountains. The farm cart is an antique hay wagon that Uschi had outside her house. She has recently informed me that it finally fell apart and is no more.

Thursday, November 24, 2011

The Third and Fourth Thursdays

“Le Beaujolais nouveau est arrivé!”

Every year since the mid-19th century, French vineyards have celebrated the harvest by producing Beaujolais nouveau as the first wine from the season's crop. It is a young wine made from the Gamay grape and is meant to be consumed during the holidays -- up until New Year's Day. Beginning around the early 1950's, the release date was moved from early December (but only in France) to the third Thursday of November, throughout the world.

So last week was the third Thursday of November...

from Every Day Matters,

sketchbook journal entry dated 11/24/11

and today is the fourth Thursday... Happy Thanksgiving, everyone!

We never really grow up, we only learn how to act in public.